Writing for Fun
January 2017
Ice Cold - Jeanette Rothwell
We were on a cruise that was called ‘Voyage in search of the Aurora Borealis’, in other words we were hoping to see the Northern Lights. It was late February and we were told that there was a very good chance of seeing them.
We cruised up the coast of Norway, on the way to Alta our northernmost destination. During the outward journey we visited an Igloo Hotel, entirely made of ice, where there was a bridal suite furnished with reindeer skins, a Chapel, bedrooms, ice sculptures, and glasses of a type of vodka served in ice cups. This hotel would melt every summer and be rebuilt as soon as it was cold enough!
We witnessed the ship ploughing through ice as it neared the Arctic Circle, and could not go out on deck because the snow was so deep and slippery on all the decks. A good 10 inches deep in some places.
On the night before we were due to get to Alta, our furthest point, the entertainment was from Syd Little. He had been, 10 years ago, part of the duo called Little and Large, but his partner had been forced to retire due to some heart problem, but Syd was still treading the boards. The Ship’s theatre was full and he was warmly greeted when he appeared on stage. He had a guitar and sang an opening number. The ship’s tannoy then sounded. ‘Ladies and Gentlemen, the Northern Lights can be viewed on the starboard side of the ship.’ The whole theatre stood up and rushed out to the upper decks with Syd standing there looking completely bewildered. It actually wasn’t a very good view of the lights and we all trooped back to the theatre. Syd announced, ‘Well, I have had a few people walk out of my shows but not a whole theatre. If it happens again, I’ve brought my coat and I’m coming with you.’
We finally reached Alta where the ship docked and we all piled on to coaches which sped their way through roads piled high on each side with snow. The coaches did not appear to go any slower than they go on dry roads because they had all the right tyres and chains on them. We travelled for two hours to get away from the lights pollution of the city, to reach the side of a small mountain which was fully equipped to receive the thousands of visitors seeking the Northern Lights.
We were wearing so many layers of clothes, including the thermals we had been advised to bring. I could hardly move my arms for the layers of padding. I was glad I had made sure I wouldn’t want to go to the bathroom while I was there, I don’t know where I would have started. Ice cold was not an exaggeration. It was minus 17 but not too uncomfortable as there was no wind.
Some wit in the party said it was cold enough for reindeers to be looking for padded jackets on e-bay. Somebody else said you could warm up by simply imagining a fire crackling in the grate. My imagination was settling down in an armchair upholstered in a bright red velvet, in front of a log fire. This made absolutely no difference. My imagination was warm but the rest of me was still freezing.
Yes, we did see the Northern Lights. Looking up it was like seeing the bottom of a curtain, the folds and pleats. Not as colourful as many pictures show, but very spectacular.
The snow was so different to the snow in our country. It was thick but quite dry. We climbed a path to a hut where we were offered hot chocolate and apple cake and on the way down I steadied myself on the snow built up on either side of the path and when I reached the bottom my gloves were quite dry.
However, that was not the end of our adventure. We left Alta and started on our journey back. We visited Tromso and Tromsdal church which is also called the Arctic Church. Still thick snow everywhere. We were docked in a bay and due to leave early evening. The ship’s engines started and we tucked into our dinner and were chatting to our new found friends when somebody remarked that we did not appear to be moving and the lights of the shore could still be seen.
Then came the announcement from the Captain. The ship had been struck by something underwater and divers were being sent down to check the damage. There was no question of danger. It was an exterior problem. We would have to stay another night in this bay. All sorts of jokes flying around: it was probably a Tesco trolley, perhaps a container had fallen in the water, etc. etc.
The next day we were informed that the marine authorities had ruled that the ship must be taken to a dry dock for repairs but there was still no danger. We would not be able to make any more stops until we reached Stavanger. We would then be flown home from there.
Alarm all round. Apart from the fact that when you go on a cruise, you don’t worry about how much luggage you take, and a lot of people had cruised because they hated flying. We had 4 days at sea but the ship’s crew could not have worked harder to make us all comfortable, feed us and entertain us. No hardship at all.
We reached the area of Stavanger only to sail past. The Captain told us that it had been discovered that the dry dock in Stavanger wasn’t deep enough for the ship and we would have to sail on to Antwerp which had a deeper dry dock. From there we would be taken by coach, via the Eurotunnel, back to Tilbury, our starting point.
Apparently nearly every coach company in Essex had been approached and when we reached Antwerp lined up on the dock were 19 coaches to take 820 people and their luggage back home. We arrived in Tilbury only about an hour later than the original schedule. We had been given a very generous compensation refund for a non-completed cruise, and money off our on-board account. In fact enough for us to go on another cruise later in the year, but that is another story.
