April 2012
During the last 20 years, I have spent many of my Easter holidays in a small village, Couthures on the banks of the River Garonne in the south west of France. Since the new road bridge was built there is really no through traffic, only people who live there or are visiting. When I first went there it was not looking at its best, many houses needed some work done on them, but as the Museum of Les Gens De Garonne has progressed, more coach loads of visitors have come and the village has become better known and so the properties have improved.
It has a main square near the church, overlooking a bend in the river, where special events are held. Also they have a green where the tented 'chapeteau' holds events, during the summer mostly. The village has a school, a post office, a bakers/tobacconist, a bar, but not a village store anymore; the large supermarket on the road to Marmande has taken over. They do have a bus service that is a form of 'dial a ride' system.
The area around the village in mainly flat, a flood plain, although nearby Meihan is high up on the bank of the river. When I first went there it was mostly corn or maize grown. Now there is more variation, also several patches of trees are grown, these are considered set asides for which they receive subsidies. Many of the farmers are now retired and the fields are attended by entrepreneurs' employees.
My friends, who I stay with, purchased their property, an old farmhouse but no fields, from a family who originally came from Italy, many years earlier, They (this family) used to live in the farmhouse down the road, but over the years had built a new home nearby. Stephano, his wife and several children, three of the brothers still lived in the family home, two of them dealing with the fields and the youngest dealing with the market garden. All are now officially retired but still help out other farmers, and grow their own fruit and vegetables. They still drive past my friend's place many times a day, always wave, often pop in for an aperitif and look after the place when my friends are back in England.
Stephano speaks French with a definite Italian accent, and has memories of times as a youngster in Italy. He has family, who still live there, as well as many relatives who live all round France and some who live in the USA. He is an old man now and is very bent through years of back-breaking farming. He would be very tall if he stood up straight, as are all his children. Marcel, the youngest, is very tall, broad and has large hands and feet, but is certainly a 'gentle giant.' He is the one who helps my friends and their visitors the most. He knows everyone (many are his cousins) who can help people; he knows the good markets, restaurants and places to go. He was the most spoilt of his family (being the youngest of so many), and certainly was the main stay of the Young Farmers of the village and area. He was and still is very involved in all that goes on in the area and is known by all.
Where my friend's property is situated is just outside the village, surrounded by fields with a few other properties within sight. It is a quiet and peaceful area, most people driving past are known to my friends, who spend most of the summer there. They are always welcomed back, as are all their visitors of which I am one. I always feel relaxed while I am there and come back refreshed. I don't know yet if I will be going this year but I hope to be able to visit again soon.